Feed on
Posts
Comments

Highpointing Texas

Hoooome! What a trip! I took Thursday and Friday off from work and headed out west. I left Austin at 11 AM after some last-minute-last-minute shopping and arrived at the Guadalupe Mountain visitor center around 8:30 PM. Along the way I discovered all bottled tea is complete ass, the sweetened kind being the worst. “Lipton Brisk” tasted ok, but reading the label revealed there wasn’t much tea in it. The sun had just set when I arrived. The drive from Van Horn to the mountain reminded me a lot of the drive from Wadsworth to Gerlach; lots of shrubby hills and “no services for 65 miles.” The campground at the park was very calm and quiet aside from a stiff breeze blowing through the pass.

Around 9:30 I got my tent setup and squared away. The valley between the peak and Hunter Peak provided a nice frame for stars. I setup for some long exposure shots which should come out nicely. About an hour later the moon came up and the stars disappeared so I went to sleep. The wind picked up and I soon discovered my tent is not ideal for high winds. Despite the rain fly being lashed down taunt, there were still edges that were flapping. All night long was FLAP FLAP FLAP crinkle crinkle FLAP FLAP FLAP which kept me awake. At various points in the night I’d get up, stack up rocks and put in temporary lashes. This didn’t last long, eventually the rocks would fall and lashes would come undone. By 6 AM I gave up and slept in the back seat of the truck so I’d get at least a few hours of solid sleep before the hike.

On Friday, NWS issued a wind advisory for 50+ MPH winds at the pass as storms were forecasted for Saturday, so I was anxious to get up and down quickly. I had no idea how long it would take me to hike nor if it would spontaneously start to rain on me. Based on my experience of running out of water on Kendall Katwalk and feeling pretty miserable afterwards, I packed 3.5 liters of water along with my rain clothes and some camera gear. After feeling how much it all weighed, I moved it from my day pack to my backpack which had hip straps; this would later prove suboptimal as I think the pack weighed as much as my gear.

I left at 11 AM to start the hike up. The trail was an endless series of switchbacks up the side of the mountain. It was very rocky and steep, but well defined. There were a few spots where the trail would go along a cliff no wider than 4 feet with a 100-200 foot drop off the edge. Not something I’d want to negotiate with violent winds, but doable. While the wind was blowing there were only a few places it hit me, otherwise the mountain provided a good shelter from it. The temperature was in the 90s, but the wind kept things reasonably cool. Three hours into the hike I met the first person I ever saw on the trail. He told me I’d be at the top in about an hour and the wind was strong but not as bad as the rangers predicted.

The ridges and switchbacks kept on coming. I would think I was almost there and I’d be presented with another set of switchbacks. About three-quarters of the way up, there was a small footbridge built across a ragged cliff. Shortly after that was the Guadalupe Peak campsite. By here I was hot and beat but had the peak in sight finally.

I made it up at 3:00. At the top my first impression was, “What’s up with all the flies?” Flies everywhere, big ones at that. I don’t know if they were munching on leftover sports drinks spilled by hikers or what. Also hearing the birds swoop down the side of the peak was impressive, whooooosh! The view was awesome from the top. I signed the log book (which is full, btw) and took the requisite pictures. Shortly afterwards I was joined by another guy from Florida. He claimed he made it up in an hour and a half compared to my four hours.

I left the peak at 3:30. Not too long after, the Florida guy passed me, jogging down. Sometime after 5, I met a guy heading up the trail. He said he was 61, from Cape Cod, staying in an RV, already lost the trail not even 1000 feet up. We chatted for a bit and he gave up on his idea of climbing to the top so late. I fear the vultures are picking at his skeleton at this point. I’m glad, yet somewhat disappointed I didn’t stumble across any rattlesnakes on the trail. I stumbled down to the parking lot, utterly exhausted.

I was planning to drive down to Van Horn and spend the night. Carlsbad Caverns was 50 miles away, I went there instead. I spent the night in a Carlsbad Motel 6 with shitty wireless. Can’t say much for the city, sparse, windy and dusty. I wouldn’t want to retire there no matter how much the signs promote it.

The caverns was worth experiencing, I’d recommend it at least once. They were huge and I didn’t even go to half of them. I’d like to have seen the natural entrance and bat cave but my calves were screaming from Friday’s climb. If I ever need a nuclear fallout shelter, I call dibs on any caverns. NPS blonde #1 seemed kind of annoyed by having to deliver her spill about the elevators and “don’t touch anything”. NPS blonde #2 was much friendlier and reminded me of an older Lexi from Jurassic Park.

Carlsbad Caverns in the Post-War era is an interesting read and goes into really detailed history. Down in the cave’s lunch area they’ve got pictures of the lunch room from the 50’s. Huge numbers of people buying huge numbers of lunches. Apparently that’s when the white people with their Airstreams weren’t afraid to venture out of the suburbs and see America. According to the paper, the caverns have a scandalous past. Before the war they were all “here let me break off this stalagtite and pass it around” and “need water? drink from this natural pond”. Then in the post-war boom NPS got a bit more funded, political and organized. Americans were all “let’s load up in our new Airstreams and see this gaping cavern”. Then the people wanted 4-lane highways, paved walkways, and lunch 750 feet under the surface. The good news is, they’re still discovering new sections of the caverns and the spelunking kids can go crawl around in not-so-mainstream areas.

Saturday afternoon I drove down to Marfa, Texas. Along the way I discovered the university has an observatory on the Davis Mountains. It’s also the highest point on the Texas highway system so it’s the highest point you can drive upto in the state. Since it was weekend and still daylight there wasn’t much going on. There was a star party happening at 9:30 but I didn’t want to stick around. Marfa was loosely mentioned to me by Burton and Melissa, apparently it’s popular with the Austin kids. When arrived, the town was having a Cinco de Mayo festival at the courthouse which seems to have drawn most of the people. While at Dairy Queen I asked the girl working why Marfa was so famous in Austin; she didn’t know exactly, probably the arts and lights.

There wasn’t much to Marfa’s arts district. It was literally “on the other side of the tracks”, consisting of a few windowfront galleries and gift shops. ” Marfa Lights” was the town’s other claim to fame. Outside of town a few miles was an viewing point. There’s a point on the horizon where these bright specks of light appear which nobody other than Wikipedia can explain. The story goes that cowboys in the late 1800s reported them as Apache campfires. Other explainations are swamp gas, electromagnetic disturbances or headlights on highway 67 (which doesn’t hold with the 1800s). They appear at different points, last for 30-60 seconds; some jump around, some diverge and converge into multiple points. If it really his vehicle headlights, it’s a brilliant tourist trap.

Saturday night I rolled into Alpine. I did make the mistake once of going the wrong way down their blasted one-way streets. I wanted a cheap place with internet and found just that, Motel Bien Vinedio. $38 got me a sketchy room with wi-fi. It smelled of mold; all the furniture was old, mis-matched, second-hand and well abused; a wooden door was all between me and the outside and my adjoining neighbors; dead cockroaches in the bathroom. My favorite was the finishing nails driven into the door jam of the door going into the next room, and the gaps covered in duct tape. If you’re looking for no frills habitation, I recommend it; otherwise there’s a nice Ramada Inn on the highway out by the Border Patrol station.

Sunday morning I drove home. The drive seemed to drag on for a while, here I am. I’m tired and stiff. My hands are sunburned from the sunscreen being wiped off during the climb. I feel refreshed and now I’m looking forward to the next roadtrip. I wanted to visit the Trinity atomic bomb test site up by Alamogordo, Alex pointed out it only opens up two times a year so I’m glad I didn’t wander up there this trip.

CHL

n the op-ed section of the Statesman today (or maybe it was the Dallas or Houston paper), there was a blurb by somebody for the disclosure of people with concealed handgun licenses. Paraphased, they said something like, “As a parent, I have the right to know when my little girl is going to be around somebody with a concealed firearm.”

The only way I can take this, is that the parent feels the carrier is a danger to their child. I can’t believe this. I am highly inclined to believe a person with a concealed carry is a upstanding individual; they’re going to treat a firearm safely; they’re not going to be a felon; they’re going to be law abiding. Plus, as Steve just added, “Shotgun by the door doesn’t require a license.”

NRA, soda

Rick “nice hair” Perry is so awesome. He came out yesterday to say that Texans with concealed carry licenses should be able to carry guns anywhere, including churches, bars, courthouses, and universities. Houston Chronicle has an article about it. Nobody is introducing legislature to make any changes to the laws though, but it’s great that he’s coming out to say this.

NRA IRA is a good resource for keeping up with Texas gun laws. They’re usually how I keep up on concealed carry bills as they pass through the Texas lege. Perry just signed a bill that prevents the state from seizing guns and ammunition during emergencies, like Nagin and others did in New Orleans during Katrina. Castle Doctrine was signed into law and takes effect in September. There’s at least two other bills I’m watching closely, one which will allow CHL holders to carry a firearm in vehicle on work property and another to keep the knowledge of license holders private. Apparently liberal newspapers have a knack for getting lists of all CHL holders and publishing them in the paper. It hasn’t happened in Austin yet, but has happened in many other cities.

Three weeks without a drinking drop of soda now. I’m drinking less tea now, I think I’m down to four cups a day. I’ve tried all manner of “meal replacement bars” to suppliment my light breakfasts. I really want to like EAS bars, but the “chocolate” is so bland tasting. I’m thinking as I knock out the sugar I’ll get used to it, but not there yet.

I’m planning to head out to west Texas this weekend. I don’t know where I’m going to go yet. I’m so bored and sick of going to work every day and watching the weeks tick by, I just have to get out and go somewhere.

P.S. Alessandra Ambrosio is really pretty. She’s on my list of “hot girls I’d like to meet”.

Birth of squiggle map

Where have I been? Today’s mental exercise was plotting where I’ve traveled in my life. The result is a map with a bunch of squiggles. Rather than say “I’ve been to these states,” I wanted to narrow it down since most states are a few inches across. For this I count places I’ve actually set foot on and I don’t count places I’ve merely flown over. I know I’ve been on more trips with my parents when I was a wee child, the Grand Canyon for example, but I barely remember it and won’t count it.

Notably absent is the north, the midwest, and New England. There needs to be a map insert for Amsterdam, but lasso+cut escapes me in mspaint.

Wann Logistics has contracted with Ashpool to courier an Aistream from Kansas City to Seattle in the next few months. Ideally, I’d like to head up north with it through the Dakotas then make my way west on I-90. Coming back, I’d like to head down the coast on I-5 and Cali-1 to San Diego. I’ve wanted to make that trip for a very long time. Alternatively I wouldn’t mind coming through Wyoming through Yosemite and down to Salt Lake City. I’d also like to get a chance to hit Death Valley again, but that’s out of the way for either route. If I felt really ballsy and willing to put in the ass time, drive up to Vancouver and drive across Canada to Minnesota and head south.

It’s sounding like I may be in Amsterdam for 3 or 4 weeks now, starting in late July. We’ve finally signed contracts, but still not into the heavy planning portion of the trip.

Fun with radio

I spent some time today tracking down RFI in my truck that appears when I’m listening to 6-80 meters. I re-mounted my HF antenna, fixed some annoying problems and installed a line noise filter. The good news is, the line filter killed the majority of the noise I get when the truck ignition is in accessory mode. I still get quite a bit of noise when the igntion is on. I poked around using my HT has a noise meter and found a bit of RFI around my exhaust, radiator fan, and under the dash. Unfortunately the most interference is where my radios are mounted — this means they’re mounted in the worst possible spot. I need to dig out the Chilton manual to see just what is installed under there.

In the meantime, I brought the 857 inside and hooked to the dipole draped out on my balcony. I bought a cheap auto tuner today so I could dink around with different antenna. I discovered a few neat undesired side effects. In order to tune, the tuner requires a brief Tx (it has a cable attached to the 857 to do this for me). The first time I hit it, I forgot the 857 was set to output 100 W of power. The speakers on my cheap stereo went nuts! Later, I changed the RF output to 5 W. This time when I tried to tune for 40 meters, I popped every GCFI recepticle in my apartment at once. So awesome.

Scarlett Johansson was on SNL last night, playing Ivanka Trump in a skit! So happy, that’s like 4x the hotness in one sitting!

First week without soda

80 miles today, down past San Marcos on I-35. I got quite the blochy sunburn from it. The first 20-30 miles I felt great, but by mile 60 I was bored and very ready to be finished. My legs were getting pretty heavy, I came home and crawled in bed for a couple of hours.

One week without soda, I haven’t missed it at all. I’ve upgraded to a proper tea infuser, maybe someday I’ll get a teapot. I tried some Lapsang souchong, I can say I’m not a fan. The taste was ok, but I couldn’t get past the smoky aroma. Maybe if I was in the woods and it’s cold. An hour later I could still taste it in my mouth and felt it coursing through my veins.

3 days without soda

It’s been 72 hours without any soda. Sunday hurt like hell; I was in bed for most of the day with a pounding headache. The last time I stopped, it didn’t hurt at all. Tea has filled the vacuum. Not your ordinary Snapple or instant iced tea, but good o’ British Empire black tea (minus sugar and milk). I figure by the time I get around to visiting Dubai or Nepal I should be well versed in local teas. I’m somewhat fascinated how tea has been “the” drink for hundreds of years, yet I’ve been completely oblivious to it. It’s clearly the decent choice of drink. Fuck soda, long live tea!

I’m enjoying the afternoon ritual of boiling water at work for my post-lunch cup. So far I haven’t experienced the ups and down of sugar crashes that even diet soda tends to give me. By the end of the day I’m still very much ready to leave the office, but I don’t want to craw into bed now. I’m still at the teabag stage, but Burton loaned me his infuser and several cans of different leaves to try out. Thus far I haven’t met a black tea I haven’t liked. Last night was Earl Grey, tonight was Darjeeling. For some unknown reason, getting a whiff of the Earl Grey packages sitting on my counter tickles my nose and makes me want to sneeze. I’m told I need to try Russian caravan and Lapsang souchong to at least get an opinion if I hate it or love it.

Today it was finally warm again so I rushed home, changed out my tire on the bike and hit the road. I caught onto what a local was doing and followed his loop through the Travis Cook neighborhood. It’s around 4 miles round trip and much more interesting than doing laps at the Veloway. Since it’s in a neighborhood and not the highway, I don’t feel the pressure to keep sprinting all the time and can ride at a more lesiurely pace (i.e. in my aerobic zone).

VO2/athletic stress test

I did my VO2 test today. I should have my full formal results back from a pulmonary specialist in a week or two after they go over the spirometry and EKG data. Turns out I have small lungs; the prediction was 7.3 liters, but I only measured 3.7 liters. Since I don’t smoke, they were a bit puzzled and a bit surprised why it was so low. The technician said my VO2 max was “high”, but I don’t have the exact numbers yet.

During the stress test I got up to 230 watts and a heart rate of 186. It was a very gradual increase in resistance, no “levels”. It was hard to gauge how hard I was going unless I watched the watt meter. My legs were beginning to burn, but otherwise I was feeling fine. I felt like I could will myself further, but the technician stopped the test because my blood oxygen saturation fell to 87%.

Bioimpedance analysis shows my BMI is 24.3, which is basically right on the line between normal and overweight. It’s not surprising since I’m packing a bit of a gut these days. My basal metabolic rate is 1975 kcal, meaning that’s how much I’ll burn at rest doing nothing in 24 hours. My phase angle was 6.7 degree, which is an indicator of cellular health; higher is better. The doctor said 4 degrees is something they see in people with kidney disease and I should be much higher, but the internets say 6-8 degrees is normal.

The doctor had many recommendations for me: I need to add on more lean muscle mass to boost my metabolism; get back on my low glycemic index diet; Centrum is total crap, get better vitamins; take N-acetyl cysteine amino acid supplements; eat “a LOT” more fruits and vegetables, 5-6 servings a day; eat breakfast; decrease the amount of animal protein I eat; and basically, “Dear God stop eating all red meat and drinking soda, today, right now”. When I’m back on the low GI diet, that should take care of my weight automatically.

This weekend was an adventure in building a new closetserver. I was working with LDAP so I tried installing Fedora Directory Server on my box. When I ran out of memory, that was the last straw. Saturday I went to Fry’s to find some decently cheap new kit. I picked up a Gigabyte motherboard, an AMD Athlon 64 CPU, and memory. This is where things started going south.

I got home and realized I no longer had a VGA monitor I could use to set the system up. Then realized I was going from i386 to x86_64, so I’d need to reinstall the OS. Then realized I’d have to buy IDE->SATA adapters for the 300GB drives which already contained data. Then realized the case I had didn’t have a large enough power supply, nor have all the necessary 12V connections, nor for SATA power.

Went back to Fry’s and bought the kit I needed, and eventually borrowed a monitor from a coworker so I could get things going. The IDE->SATA connectors were a pain to work with and I eventually ditched them. This left me having to copy files from one computer to the other which is still going.

The new system is superfast. X1 weeps that I’m sticking this in the closet rather than using it as a desktop. The x86_64 architecture is very similar to what I work on at work, which is handy. The system runs much, much cooler than the other one as well. I tinkered with CPU speed management and hard drive suspension today. I really need a watt meter to actually measure what the box draws.
In other news, I watched a documentary last night called “Battle of Chernobyl. It had a lot of pictures and film footage right after the explosion and the cleanup. There were commentaries from journalists, liquidators, and several operators and military commanders who took a part in the cleanup. It’s a fascinating watch, and shocking to know how serious of a problem it was and still remains today.

A few things surprised me and I learned a lot about what I didn’t know. It seems like it was long ago, but it only happened in 1986, very much in my lifetime. I’ll admit I’m ignorant of the progress of Russian science, I’ve been given the impression that it’s dated and antiquainted. But, the Russians kicked our ass at the arms race, the space race, and they seem to make solid non-exploding space vehicles, so they’re probably at the same level of advancement as us. Whether or not this carries over to development of nuclear engineering, I don’t know. While the science may be solid, it seems corners were cut on design and most certainly the training. In the end it was a mass effort by everyone doing what they could to protect their homeland.

This isn’t an account of what happened, just some of the points I found to be of interest:

The explosion knocked a 1200 ton lid off the top of the reactor chamber which fell and wedged back inside. A #4 reactor operator said he looked up and saw stars (since the roof was blown off) and a “beautiful” stream of lights and many colors from the ionized air venting upwards.

There was 195 tons of fuel in the reactor which melted through a concrete floor. The firefighters who first responded to the explosion poured tons of water onto the fire which settled into a basin a couple floors below the reactor core. There were fears that the fuel lava would keep melting and eventually drop into the water. An engineer said that only 1.4 kilograms of the uraniuma and graphite mixture dropping into the water was enough to set off an explosion of 3-5 megatons, razing several hundred square miles and leaving all of Europe uninhabited. (!!!)

I didn’t know that they actually rounded up some coal miners and actually dug a tunnel from reactor #3 over to reactor #4. Because all of the sand and lead they had dropped onto the reactor, it was trapping the heat and not really solving the problem, thus accelerating the melting. Miners dug the tunnel and they eventually drained the water and poured a new layer of concrete under the lava. The risk was that the lava would eventually eat away the final bottom level of the building, contaminate the ground water, which would contaiminate the river, and eventually the Black Sea.

General Nikolai Antochkin, President of Heros of Russia, said a lot of people now critisize what the response was, how they battled the disaster, how they endangered thousands of lives, but “At the time, it had to be done. It was heroic.” A journalist says there were no ranks, every person there from civilian to general to soldier were doing the best job they could do to help.

During construction of the sarcophagus, they had to halt progress at one point because radiation levels were too high. They discovered on the roof of reactor #3 were chunks of graphite ejected from the explosion, which once held fuel rods. Each chunk gave off 500-1500 rontgen, enough to kill a person within an hour. They tried using robots to clear the debris, but eventually the radiation fried he electronics. So, they built up makeshift armor for workers out of thin sheets of lead. They sent thousands of workers up in groups for only a minute at a time to throw off a couple shovelfuls of graphite, then they were relieved by other workers.

A journalist who was on the roof said he was overcome with an eerie feeling, his mouth immediately tasted of lead and he couldn’t hear his teeth when he snapped his jaw. He snapped a dozen photographs and promptly left. His film photographs have faded areas extending from the sproket holes, showing where radiation was coming off the ground all over the roof.

Some people interviewed said the Soviet silence and denial of any problems at first was a bigger disaster than the explosion itself. Citizens in Kiev were encouraged to have their May Day celebration just days after the explosion, officials full well knowing the city is heavily contaimated. Gorbachev himself says he had the KGB answering to him personally as to the damage, but it was ultimately Sweden who tipped them off to the scope of the problems. After the fall of the USSR, a clerk seized documents from high level party officials which later explained how the casualty rate was far higher than anyone ever admitted.

Gorbachev is shown discussing the most powerful nuclear weapon the USSR had in their arsenal was the SS18 missile. Each one could produce 100x the damage of Chernobyl, and the Soviets had a stockpile of 2,700 SS18 missiles intended for attack on the USA if needed. Having seen the damaged caused by Chernobyl, this prompted disarmament of any nuclear missiles they had with a range over 500 miles.

This has me wondering what would happen if Chernobyl was an accident on US soil. Estimates range up to 400,000-500,000 people over several months were directly involved with the cleanup of Chernobyl. How many Americans could we gather up to put themselves in imminent danger to drop sand or dig a tunnel or operate machinery? How much would we depend on technology to solve the problem compared to outright heroics? Does Halliburton have a nuclear firefighting crew?

I also wonder if the general American population has genuine concerns about handling nuclear disasters (terrorist attack or not) or if we’ve got a general over-confident attitude of “Oh we’ve got a bunch of really smart people working on it, they’ll figure it out. Not my concern .. say, who’s going to win American Idol?” During Katrina I saw pictures on TV saying “When’s the government gonna come rescue me!” Nothing technically challenging about storm recovery, you work out the damage, form a response, send in food/water/sanitation and extract the people. What happens when we’ve got a mass of uranium goo threatning to contaminate the Mississipi or the Great Lakes. Who’s going to step up to put their lives on the line for an invisible enemy?

Water, water everywhere

Yesterday afternoon, a colleague was in my cube talking to me when out of nowhere water started pouring out of the ceiling onto my desk. I put a trash can underneath it, but apparently overnight the cleaning crew removed the trash can. The resuming waterfall destroyed all the papers on my desk. At some point this afternoon I was shaking water out of my mouse, shortly after it went apeshit on me. I live for adventure!

Allah is testing my resolve, I think.

« Newer Posts - Older Posts »